Zion. Bryce. Arches. Are all household names with outdoors enthusiasts. But Capitol Reef?
When I recommend Capitol Reef to people planning a trips to Utah, their usual reaction is, “Where’s that?” I was guilty of this, too. The first time I visited, it was just a drive by between Bryce and Arches. But as verdant Capitol Reef vanished in our rear view mirror and the Utah desert replaced our surroundings, I vowed to return and spend more time there one day.
Who knew that it would be 15 years before we returned and that it would take a pandemic to shift everyone’s summer plans allowing a spot to open up in the one and only campground in the park? We jumped at the chance figuring we could always cancel our site if numbers started going south or we couldn’t reserve campsites at surrounding parks coming and going.
First Impressions
After driving through approximately 100 miles of hot, barren desert dotted with distant sandstone formations, the landscape drastically changed as we became surrounded by the “reef” of mountains that incorporates Capitol Reef.
As we pulled into Fruita Campground, spotting deer and marmots all along the drive, sunset provided a phenomenal introduction to Capitol Reef. The way the rays play on the different colors in the landscapes brings hues out that are not visible in the heat of the day.
What to do?
Hike – Capitol Gorge – This hike was highly recommended by our camp host as a place to potentially spot wildlife (the hike culminates at some natural “tanks” or waterholes where animals will come during the hot, dry months). As soon as we set foot on the trail, I was in heaven. It begins in the bottom of a dry canyon bed with cliffs towering over you on both sides just like so many hikes at neighboring Zion. While the two national parks are similar in landscape, Capitol Reef comes without the hordes of crowds. We passed maybe 6 groups of people during our entire 2 hour hike which allowed us to fully absorb the beauty of our surroundings.
Along the hike, are ancient petroglyphs from the Freemont People that inhabited the valley until the 13th century. There is also a register of Mormon settlers in the region etched into the cliff faces as well. And of course, many beautiful layers and rock formation to admire!
When we reached “the tanks” at the end of the trail, we had to climb up to the very last pool to find any water. We did not encounter any wildlife (other than lizards) but we definitely found evidence of their earlier presence in the sand surrounding the holes. These creatures definitely eek out an existence in an unforgiving climate!
Other hikes we enjoyed:
Freemont River Trail (we only walked the part in the valley between the campground and Gifford House to score some amazing cinnamon rolls) but would definitely like to continue farther on this trail in the future.
Petroglyphs Trail – is a boardwalk trail right off Highway 24 that showcases multiple examples of petroglyphs and explanations of them along the towering cliff faces.
Hiking along The Freemont River Trail 
Gigantic Cinnamon Roll 
Delicious!
Ranger Talks and Junior Geologist Talks
We love attending ranger talks. Our kids love animals. So naturally, we were super excited to attend a talk at Fruita Amphitheater on Mountain Lions. This was probably the most entertaining and informative Ranger talk we have ever attended. Fun fact: Did you know that when a mountain lion licks its prey, it’s preparing to eat it? Think about that the next time your cat licks you! I would also like to thank the ranger for introducing us to the book “Cougar Attacks.” Let’s just say that after reading the book, our whole family is well versed in cougar behavior!
In addition to the normal Junior Ranger Badge offered by all national parks, Capitol Reef also offers is a Junior Geologist Badge. Since my kids are obsessed with rocks and minerals, this couldn’t have been more perfect. Normally, there is a whole host of activities for kids to do/learn about in the Ripple Rock Nature Center. This year, they had all the kids sitting outside on the porch to keep everyone socially distanced. The talk was led by a local college student and the kids loved learning about all the different layers in the mountains around us. Definitely check this out if you are visiting.
BEcoming Junior Rangers at Capitol Reed 
Socially Distanced Ranger Talk on Cougars!
Where to Stay?
Fruita Campground: Surrounded on two sides by towering sandstone cliffs, this oasis is filled with grass and trees. Deer graze in the meadow nearby while the stream is a perfect place to cool off or search for beautiful rocks (that we then leave for others to discover of course)! This 71-site campground is the only place to stay in the park, so it’s well worth making reservations. We stayed in two different spots – 4 and 30. While spot 4 was long enough, it was deceivingly unlevel and we maxed out on blocks in this site. 30 was perfect – near the stream and a level site. We loved it! Just like all other national parks, there are no hookups (though there is a dump station and fresh water fill up) so if it’s hot, you might be uncomfortable. We lucked out as highs were in the 80s when we stayed there…but the week before it was in the upper 90’s so it does get warm here. The hosts were the most friendly hosts we have ever met. They were helpful with what to do in the park and had hummingbird feeders for the kids to hold while the birds did fly-bys (similar to Maverick in Top Gun with the control tower). It was an unforgettable experience to say the least.
If you can’t find a spot in the park, Torrey is just up the road and has quite a few hotels and campgrounds as well. It is a small town but has the basic services just in case you need something… and is only about a 10 minute drive to the park.
Fruit Trees!
So, the Mormon settlers planted acres of fruit trees in the valley which still stand and produce fruit today. One of the perks of visiting during the summer is that you may luck out and be there when the fruit is ripe and ready to pick! You can eat it in the orchard or pay for what you bring out. What a unique way to experience the National Park through a sense not often employed – taste!
How Long to Stay?
We only stayed 2 nights because that was all we could arrange for camping reservations, however, my usual rule of 3 night minimum definitely applies here. We would have liked to hike one or two more trails… as well as pick fruit (which was not ready the days we were there in late June). That said, if all you can swing is 2 nights, it is completely possible to enjoy this park. It is relatively small and easily explored via road and short hikes in that amount of time.
Getting There
Located off desolate two-lane Highway 24 in Southern Utah, Capitol Reef is about halfway in between Bryce Canyon and Arches National Parks. It took us about 2 hours from Interstate 70 at Greenwater and about 2 more hours to reach Bryce Canyon National Park after leaving Capitol Reef. It’s an easy detour between the two parks!
Hop, Skip & Voyage Away 